'Acclimatise for a minimum of two days!'
'No local sight seeing for first 36 hours'
'Inner line permit will be given only two days after arrival in Leh'
'Leh has 25% less oxygen in the air. So acclimatise well!'
With these cautionary messages, would you venture out for a trek or hike at 13000 feet above the mean sea level? More so if you are a senior citizen past 73 years of age? Most tourists will say no! But Ghumakkad being in the company of his equally adventurous grandson Ansh, decided otherwise! Our picture story follows.
We undertook a high altitude hike in Ladakh while returning from Siachen Glacier and the Base Camp. On the return leg, after you cross Pamanik village and the hot springs, there is a worn out signboard of Yarab Tso meaning Yarab Lake. We had noticed the sign board on the way up the Glacier. The call of a high altitude hike, though fraught with risk, was too tempting not to be taken. Both of us decided to explore!
The weathered signboard of Yarab Tso on Siachen Road.
Where is Yarab Tso
Located in the midst of vast Nubra valley and its expansive riverbed, it is a lake ensconced and hidden on top of three hills. Two of the three hills can be seen from the river bed while the third hill lies behind. See the terrain map below. The lake can neither be seen from the Siachen road nor the vast valley. Yarab Tso is not on the normal tourist circuit. Domestic tourists seldom go there (thank God for it! Otherwise the place would be as crowded as Khardung La or Hundar sand dunes!). Tashi, our driver informed us that a few foreign tourists do hike to the lake once in a while.
Significance
Yarab Tso lake is considered sacred and spiritual by the local folks. Bathing, washing or swimming is not permitted. The lake freezes in winter. Being June, the snows had melted all around.
Our Picture Story follows.
The
two explorers in Nubra valley, Ladakh
The hike begins with Ansh in the lead.
The riverbed was not completely dry. My experience told me it could be like
quicksand. So I told Ansh to stop and follow me.
Once we crossed the wet part of the riverbed, Ansh was given a green signal to lead again!
In mountain hiking, you need to pause and admire the view as you gain height. Though Nubra valley is
barren, yet it has its beauty.
Folks in the hills pile up stones around the roads, paths and trails. These are
prayer stones which remain steady till a severe storm topples them.
The rarefied atmosphere of Ladakh was showing its effect on us. Huffing and puffing, we could take few steps before stopping. After catching our breath, we could continue again. It was slow climbing particularly for me at 73 years. Ansh still had spring in his legs at 21!
See the video below of our slow and steady climb.
While we kept going,
bend after bend, the lake was nowhere in sight!
At last, the lake appeared from
hiding!
A
perimeter walkway with tiles is being built around the lake for people to do a 'parikrama' probably!
It was difficlt to find a level spot for the
DSLR tripod to take a timer shot. We did find a spot but the camera viewfinder had to rest against a boulder. So, the timer shot had to be like a blind shot! Luckily, the result was not bad!
Thankfully the lake and its approach were devoid of other tourists or hikers. We could not spot any human beings as far as the eyes could see!
It was time to start the descent. Ansh had all the energy. Although I led in the beginning to maintain a steady downward climb, Ansh overtook after a while! I would have done the same at that age!
Other Stories on Ladakh
Given below are the links to our previous stories on Ladakh. Click to browse the pictures and videos.
Blue Skies Lift Your Spirit - Aerial shots as we approach Leh. The blue skies are so uplifting!
Siachen The Highest Battlefield In The World - See the pictures and videos of our drive through the Nubra Valley to Siachen Glacier and the War Memorial. Very humbling experience.


Hope you liked our adventurous hike in a high altitude riverbed in Ladakh. Looking back, it was a risky adventure. Risky because of rarefied atmosphere and fear of catching the pulmonary oedema. But what is life without a bit of risk and adventure? God was with us.
Do leave a comment, even if a few words. It encourages us.
More stories of our adventures in Ladakh are coming up. Stay connected. Thanks for browsing.
- Harsh-the-Ghumakkad with Ansh Bhargava/ Nubra Valley and Secunderabad/ 12th July 2025
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