Remembering Rezang La

Rezang La has been in the news recently. Why? What is Rezang La? Name of a place or a battle? Can we go there?

Ghumakkad shares his recent experience of Rezang La in this story. Ansh my grandson and I had the privilege of visiting Rezang La War Memorial in June 2025. It was a memorable experience offering our humble tribute there.

Rezang La is etched in the annals of battle history as the bravest example of 'Last Man Last Round'. Located in the icy heights of Ladakh India at an altitude of 16,500 feet above MSL Rezang La (La means a mountain pass like Khardung La) was the scene of one of the most heroic battles anywhere in the world. Rezang La post was manned by the Charlie Company of 13th Battalion of the Kumaon Regiment. 

Reaching Rezang La

Driving through the barren mountains of Ladakh gives you a feeling of how miniscule we humans are. In Chushul valley, you have to find a track to drive on. One can spot Indian Army bunkers on mountains which are sky high! There are posts which seem to be touching the sky. Sharing few pictures below.

On the way to Rezang La, we crossed the Flag Meeting Point, where the Indian and Chinese sides hold their meetings periodically. Visitors are not permitted on that stretch of the road.

The villagers in Ladakh have learnt to live in the extreme environment. They use local material for making their huts including the boundary walls. See the picture below.

Another high altitude pass which we traversed.

Those not familiar with Ladakh, may see the map below showing India China borders across Chushul valley and Pengongtso Lake.

As we neared the Memorial, we could see few vehicles parked outside. The first view of the iconic memorial was simply awe inspiring.

We quote below the details about Rezang La penned by Col Manoj Pathak, an Indian Army veteran who was commissioned into 13 KUMAON (hereinafter referred to as 13 Kumaon). Thank you Manoj.

_________  

Every year, 18 November, is Rezang La Day. We salute the 114 soldiers of 121 soldiers of Charlie company (later renamed as Rezang-La company by Gazette notification of India) who gave the ultimate sacrifice this day on 18 Nov 1962 atop the icy heights at 16500 ft above MSL, called Rezang La.

Led by Major Shaitan Singh from the front, he took bullets in his left hand  and machine gun burst in his abdomen, laying down his life for India. He was awarded the highest war time gallantry award in the face of enemy. - the Param Vir Chakra (Posthumously). (Ed: A bust stands tall to honour Maj Shaitan Singh in his hometown of Jodhpur).

Dauntless daring, unwavering courage and an adamantine will- truly describe this bravest son of the soil!

An artist's impression of Maj Shaitan Singh leading from the front.

Pictured below are the two telegrams sent to Mrs Sugad, wife of Maj Shaitan Singh. The first telegram by the Defence Ministry sent on the eve of the Republic Day 1963 declared Maj Shaitan Singh as missing and presumed taken as POW. It also conveyed the news of the award of PVC. His body had not been found till then. It lay frozen under the snow in Rezang La.

The second telegram of 13th Feb 1963 from Indian Army informed her that Maj Shaitan Singh 'now reported killed in action'. The bodies were recovered on 11th Feb after the snows had melted.

In recognition of their conspicuous act of gallantry in the face of enemy, 13 Kumaon was decorated with eight Vir Chakras, and one each Sena Medal and Mention-in-Dispatches. 

Three months after the battle on 11 Feb 1963, a team of Red Cross and 13 Kumaon personnel visited the site of the battle and found the "Heroes" frozen in trenches with their weapons still in hand, ready to fire.

Apart from outdated weapons, the Indian troops were not well equipped with extreme cold climate clothing as compared to their Chinese counterparts. Similarly, the road infrastructure on the Chinese side was much more extensive and well developed.

Ninety-five of those "Heroes" were cremated in one single pyre, lit by then Brigadier TN Raina (later Chief of  the Army Staff) who was awarded Maha Vir Chakra. Remaining martyrs were cremated at the same place over several days as and when their bodies were discovered from the frozen battlefield. (Ed: Many of these brave soldiers were Ahirwals from Haryana. At Rezang La War Memorial, the cremation ground has been named 'Ahir Dham' and a plaque erected in their memory. See the pictures below).

(Ed: Similarly, as a mark of respect to the brave martyrs, a memorial has been erected in Rewari in Haryana)

At this very sacred place, today stands a huge White Marble Memorial, dedicated to the 114 Rezang  La Battle Heroes. (Ed: I felt humbled as well as blessed to have paid homage to Rezang La Heroes. See the picture below).

 

The Battle of Rezang La continues to be counted as one of the leading examples of "Last Man Last Round" Battle. Every single soldier though heavily outnumbered, fought till the end when the last round in his weapon got exhausted.

The most heart breaking fact is that two real brothers and their real brother-in-law (Jeeja) fought together and made the supreme sacrifice together in the same fire trench, lesser than 6x4.5x1.5 feet. Imagine the state of their family. While writing this, I am getting goosebumps. My eyes have welled up.

I wish this battle is taught to the students in schools across India. (Ed: We hope through this blog post, more and more people read about the ultimate sacrifice made by 114 soldiers of 13 Kumaon who killed almost 2000 enemy soldiers. Estimates of Chinese casualties vary. But the fact remains that Rezang La remains one of the most heroic defences in world military history).

 

On 18 Nov 2021 the memorial was re-inaugurated at Chushul, Leh, by Defence Minister Raj Nath Singh. The old Memorial remains unchanged, but auditorium, museum and a cafeteria have been added around the existing memorial. (Visitors are welcome there. Pictures below by Ansh, Ghumakkad's grandson)

I was commissioned in this incredible fighting machine 13 Kumaon. Later I got the opportunity to command the Rezang-La company during Op-Parakram and in Ethiopia-Eritrea (UN Mission).

The Nation must care for its war widows, war heroes, veterans and serving soldiers if the Nation is to survive and thrive.  

     - Col Manoj Pathak (Pen name Jayatu Bharatam)

______________ 

 

Once again we thank Col Manoj Pathak for this gripping narrative of the battle of Rezang La. We remain in awe of their bravery and sacrifice.

Postscript-1: Capt Sunil Sud, IN grew up in Jodhpur where his father was posted. He wrote:

"I was in Jodhpur when Maj Shaitan Singh's body was brought and taken around town in a horse drawn cortege. The cortege went right in front of our house. This and the 20 days of bombings during the 65 war, every night, are memories one carries along..."

Thanks for sharing Sunil.

End of postscript-1.

The Indian film industry has risen to the occasion and a feature film named '120 Bahadur' has been released on 21st Nov 2025 across the theatres in the world.

We have earlier also carried few stories remembering and honouring the fallen soldiers. One such story is linked below:

Fallen But Not Forgotten - Remembering the heroes of WW-I, a guest story by Trixie Asirvatham.

What Do The Veterans Need? - Do they need medical support, house, financial independence? Or, something more? Read on.

No amount of gratitude can ever repay a soldier's supreme sacrifice. The least we can do is to keep 'Nation First' in our mind. 

Always!

Jai Hind.

Thanks for browsing. Stay connected. Do leave a comment. Few words will do. It encourages us.

   -  Harsh-the-Ghumakkad with Col Manoj Pathak and Ansh Bhargava/ Secunderabad/ 25th Nov 2025

#RezangLa #MilitaryHistory #WarMemorial #Chushul #Ladakh #SinoIndianWar1962 #LastManLastRound #13Kumaon #CharlieCompany #IndianArmy #ColManojPathak #ghumakkadhb #ghumakkadharsh

Ladakh Fauna

Ladakh is famous for Khardungla and now MigLa at 19,400 feet, Pengongtso lake, Siachen Glacier and the like. But Ladakh is also known for the Double-humped Camels, Asian Wild Ass, Yak, Marmot and other fauna. Though we were neither fully equipped for wildlife photography nor had the time for it, but we did observe and capture some of the fauna of Ladakh. With scant vegetation and harsh winters, the animals adapt themselves. We share below few pictures along with a brief description of the associated fauna. Picture quality may not be as good, but we wanted to share with our readers and prospective visitors to Ladakh so that they are better informed about the flora and fauna.

Double Humped Camel

Double-humped camels, also known as Bactrian camels, are found in the Nubra Valley of Ladakh, India. They are a popular tourist attraction, particularly for camel safaris on the sand dunes of Hunder (also spelt as Hunder), Diskit and Sumur. These camels are well-adapted to the harsh, cold desert environment of Ladakh. They are smaller and stouter than single-humped camels, with thick, woolly coats for warmth. The double-humped camel is now the main source of livelihood for natives of Ladakh, thanks to camel safari and other tourism activities. The Bactrian camel is an IUCN Red List species listed as critically endangered since 2002. These camels are largely domesticated. Based on our experience, we would prefer Sumur sand dunes and camel safari over Hundar. Because Sumur is less crowded, serene and peaceful. Sumur also hosts the National Traditional Archery Tournament in June every year. But you have to take a call whether you are visiting Siachen base camp or not. If yes, then stop over at Sumur on the return leg. See the pictures.

Kiang or Asian Wild Ass

We sighted this animal at two places. Firstly in Chushul valley while going to Rezang La and then on the return leg to Chang La. On both occasions we sighted the Kiang in pairs. or threes On Changla road, it appeared to be a family with a calf following the parents! Pictures will follow. But before that, a brief description of Kiang thanks to Britannica. Kiang, (Equus kiang), species of Asian wild ass found in the cold, arid highlands of Nepal, India, Pakistan and China at elevations above 13,000 feet. The kiang’s coat is reddish in summer and brown, and it has white underparts that do not change with the seasons. The kiang is the largest species of wild ass; it stands 55 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 250 and 440 kg and many times mistaken for a horse! Pictures follow.

Marmot

Did you know that the Marmots belong to the squirrel family? According to Britannica, Marmots are found primarily in North America and Eurasia including the Himalayas. These rodents are large and heavy, weighing 3 to 7 kgs, Marmots are well suited for life in cold environments and have small fur-covered ears, short, stocky legs, and strong claws for digging. All live in burrows that they excavate. Marmots are active during the day (diurnal) and are almost entirely vegetarian. All hibernate in winter, most of them deeply. During hibernation they live on fat reserves accumulated during the summer. Pictures shot from long distance follow.

Yak

Yaks are seen grazing at elevations above 14,000 feet above mean sea level. We observed an herd near Pengongtso as also in the Changla region. Yaks live as domesticated animals as well as in the wild. Easily identified by their jet black coat of long hair, short legged, large size (as compared to other cattle) and grazing posture. They are found in the higher reaches of the Himalayas, Central Asia and China. Their long hair and heavy undercoat can keep them warm even at -40 degrees Celsius. According to Britannica, Yaks’ lung capacity is about three times that of cattle, and they have more and smaller red blood cells, improving the blood’s ability to transport oxygen. Domesticated yaks are bred for tractability and high milk production. Yaks are also used for ploughing and threshing, as well as for meat, hides, and fur. The dried dung of the yak is the only obtainable fuel on the treeless Tibetan plateau. Few pictures shot by us follow.

Like human beings, yaks also have an ID as seen in the tag below.

Pashmina Sheep

Pashmina shawls are woven and sold in Ladakh and Kashmir region of the Himalayas. Pashmina sheep are reared. You can see a herd grazing on the road to Chang La.

Birds of Ladakh

We did not go birding in Ladakh. Few birds which we sighted are incidental. Few more for which we don't have pictures were Large wagtail and an eagle soaring high up in Diskit area. Sharing few pictures of those which we could identify.

Alpine Accentor or Robin Accentor

We sighted this bird with orange underbelly and short but pointed beak on Changla Road. We queried gen-AI and got the response, "Alpine Accentors are residents of Ladakh and are commonly found in high-altitude regions, including areas near Changla Pass, which aligns with the user's sighting location. They prefer open barren rocky slopes and valleys above the tree line. " So much for generative AI and its usage. Readers may browse eBird site for further details. Our pictures follow.

Chukar Partridge

We sighted a solitary Chukar on the road in Nubra valley while returning from Siachen Base camp. Very alert and agile, by the time I could position the DSLR in my moving vehicle, it scurried away. Therefore, both the shots are a bit blurry. Chukar partridge is easy to identify because it is boldly-patterned. It is overall pale sandy brownish-gray with bold black stripe on the face and black stripes on sides. For further details you may browse ebird. See the pictures below.

Another Bird

We sighted another bird with longish tail sitting on a rock at ground level near the road from Tangtse to Pengongtso. lake Gen-AI responded saying that it looked like White-tailed Ptarmigan. At the same time, it mentioned that the Ptarmigan was a native of North America and not likely to be sighted in Ladakh. So we are not sure which bird was it. Moreover, despite the 300mm lens, it was too far away for reasonably clear magnification. See the picture below.

Would be grateful to any reader for further help in identification.

Cormorants were sighted at many places in Ladakh. Sharing below a picture taken opposite the Shey Palace.

Other Fauna

Once the snows melt, multitude of grass and flowers sprout adding colour to the barren terrain. Sharing few pictures below.

Sia flowers grow wild. Siachen is named after Sia flower. See the picture below.

Dogs love to sleep for better part of the day. Ladakhi dogs are no exception. See the sleepy though innocent looking eyes of the dog below. His companion on the left did not get disturbed and continued to enjoy the slumber.

Trucks and Bikers

Trucks and bikers are an integral part of the roads in Ladakh. The trucks have hilarious one-liners painted on the rear. See the pictures below. 

How many messages or one-liners do you see in the picture below?

Truck Lover
Rolls Royce

Shikari; Game Over
When we walk on road, you eat at home
I Love Kashmir
Use Dipper at night
Own Power, Own Rules, Own Kingdom
Speed 60km

Bikers invade Ladakh highways once the snows melt. Hordes of them can be seen riding together and making reels. Sharing two pictures below.

Other Stories About Ladakh

We share below some of the stories of our Ladakh trip undertaken in June 2025.

High Altitude Hiking in Ladakh- Is it risky for a 73-year-old? Picture story with video clips. 

Siachen The Highest Battlefield in the World - The picture story is sure to give you goose bumps! We salute our Siachen Warriors.

Blue Skies Lift Your Spirits - Feel the blue skies as we land in Leh.

Here is another perspective of Ladakh through the lens of our daughter Akanksha who went there in June 2022.

Ladakh - Shades of Heaven on Earth - a story with breathtaking pictures

Thanks for browsing, stay connected.

Do leave a comment, it encourages us.

    -   Harsh-the-Ghumakkad with Ansh Bhargava/ Secunderabad/ 22nd Oct 2025

#Ladakh #Himalayas #Flora #Fauna #DoubleHumpedCamel #Kiang #LadakhiWildAss #ChukarPartridge #RobinAccentor #Marmot #Yak #PashminaSheep #Kashmir #Snow #PengongtsoLake #Tangtse #CheLa #ChangLa #GhumakkadHarsh #ghumnakkadhb