Ghumakkad in Hindi means 'the wanderer'. That is what I am. On the move any time anywhere!
This blog chronicles Ghumakkad's travels/teachings/learnings around the globe as picture stories. In addition, there are Picturesque Quotes (PQs) created using my pictures. Enjoy it.
If you have also been to the places/topics described here, please feel free to add to the content.
Your comments/ suggestions are welcome.
Do caves fascinate you? Or, are you scared of entering a cave? Caves not only fascinate but excite Ghumakkad!
In a span of three weeks, we visited two caves during a self-drive expedition covering 3000 kms from Hyderabad. Call it madness during the peak of summer!
This story takes you to Belum Caves in Andhra Pradesh India. These caves have been crafted by Nature over millions of years. Being limestone caves, flowing underground river has chiselled its way through the rocks. Like the tentacles of an octopus, underground caves also spread in multiple directions. More on it later.
Where is Belum?
It is 375 kms south of Hyderabad, slightly east of National Highway NH44. It is a 7-hour drive and a getaway for Nature and exploration buffs. See the map below courtesy Google Maps.
Types of Caves
Basically, the caves can be of two types- rock cut (or man-made) or natural. Belum caves are natural whereas India has many rock cut caves like Ellora, Udaygiri, etc. See the caves map of India below.
Belum Caves in Pictures
Sharing below are a set of pictures with commentary superimposed for ease of browsing. View it in full screen to 'feel' the darkness and the thrill of visiting a dimly lit cave.
See the spread of the underground caves in the engraved map below. Does it remind you of the tentacles of an octopus?
Please browse the YouTube video below shot by Ghumakkad while negotiating the dark cave. I grazed the low ceiling at many places. With only one air vent working in the cave, I had to stand below the vent to recharge the lungs and carry on. The video is a bit long but it gives you the 'real' feeling of being underground in darkness!
While writing this story, we chanced upon a post by Debashis Mukherjee, a passionate traveller and explorer. He visited the famous Postojna Cave in Slovenia in June 2024. Like Belum caves, Postojna limestone caves have also been created by a river named Pivka.
In Debashis' words, "Visited Postojna Caves, about 55 km away from Ljubljana. I have seen many underground limestone caves in India (in Andhra Pradesh and Meghalaya) and all over the world (Vietnam, Spain, France, etc.) but this one is just mind blowing. These caves are over 24 km long and one of the biggest and most spectacular in the world. It is also unique in that there is a railway system inside the caves for the benefit of the visitors which was installed 140 years ago!
Photos cannot capture the magnificence and grandeur of these natural wonders created by mother nature over millions of years. One has to actually see them. That’s why I travel!"
Thanks Debashis for echoing Ghumakkad's passion. In fact Debashis and Ghumakkad did a self-drive together from Kolkata to Munsiyari and back. That story is yet to be posted by Ghumakkad. You may browse Debashis' posts with spectacular pictures by clicking here.
Sharing below three of the pictures of Postojna Caves taken by Debashis.
Postojna Caves have the world's only cave post office. See the picture below.
Continuing with our pictures of Belum Caves.
More Stories on Caves in India
We are sharing below the links to some of our earlier stories on caves. Just click the link to browse the pictures and videos of each of the featured caves.
Undavalli Caves- An architectural marvel in Andhra Pradesh. Monolith rock cut caves with four-stories having a reclining Vishnu idol.
Next, we have Borra Cavesin the Eastern Ghats in India, 90-kms north of Vishakhapatnam. But these are natural caves formed because of rich limestone rocks. Spectacular to see, specially when lighted up. Stalactite and Stalagmite create surreal shapes. You may read the following picture story.
Beauty of Darkness- Magic created 150-million years ago by Stalactites and Stalagmites
Another cave which offers a bit of thrill and adventure is the Narsing Temple near Bidar in Karnataka. You have to wade through chest high water for half a km or so, to reach the deity in the cave. Pretty scary to say the least. Browse the last part of the story linked below to feel the thrill:
We close with Joseph Campbell's famous words, "The cave you fear to enter holds the treasure you seek." Isn't that true about the challenges (caves) we face in our lives?
Thanks for browsing. More stories on rock-cut architecture of India will follow soon. Stay connected.
- Harsh-the-Ghumakkad with Neeta Bhargava/ Belum Caves, Andhra Pradesh India/ 15th July, 2024
Who lives in a cave? Childhood memories tell us-- it is the king of the jungle. Or, sadhus and hermits doing penance up in the Himalayas. Or, mountaineers and trekkers seeking shelter from rain or snow. Or, the Taliban terrorists hiding in Afghanistan! So, caves mean different things to different people. There are many caves in India. But Borra Caves in Eastern Ghats are one of the deepest. Located 90 kms north of Vizag, it is a big tourist attraction. See the map and official sign board below.
The caves are situated 2300 ft above mean sea level. The caves go down 260 feet deep into the mountain. Visitors get a chance to walk upto 700 feet inside the cave. With limited natural light, the caves have been illumniated with soft LED lights. With changing colours, it creates a surreal effect on surrounding rocks and ceiling.
A separate ticket for camera is required. Flash photography is not permitted as in Ajanta-Ellora caves near Aurangabad. Therefore, it is a tough call to keep the camera steady for long exposure. Ghumakkad did some experimentation with his monopod. Tripod would come in the way of teeming tourists, hence ruled out. Pictures of Borra caves for you.
Am reminded of what Mahatma Gandhi said about darkness. Here is a picturesque quote- PQ- for you.
While negotiating a dark pathway around a tall stalagmite pillar, I took this picture. Here it is as a PQ with Hellen Keller's quote on darkness.
At the end of the cave, the lighting cast its shadow on the walls. Take a look with Adrienne Rich's famous line.
The next story will take you to Chaparai Waterflow near Araku to get a thrill of cascading and gushing river water.
Other caves in India are: Elephanta caves near Mumbai Borivli caves in Borivli National Park, Mumbai Bellum Caves in AP Narsing Cave Temple near Bidar Caves near Sahasradhara, Dehradun Ajanta-Ellora near Aurangabad Bali cave near Chintamani temple, Hampi
Do share your pictures and experiences of visiting a cave. Thanks for browsing - Harsh-the-Ghumakkad/ 27th Aug 2017
Postscript: "Somehow despite the dramatic effects in some corners of the cave, where rock formations are particularly unique, in my opinion the bright colors of the LED lights all through the cave length make the natural wonder appear a bit artificial, like stage lighting, I think. Makes you wonder what the natural rock formation really is like/ or the true colors of rocks in nature are like."-- Am with you on this observation Trixie. "Stalactites and stalagmites are considered natural heritage objects and are protected by law in most countries, and their collection, mining, and selling is prohibited." (both observations by Trixie Asirvatham, 30th Aug 2017). Thanks much Trixie. Although there were no warning boards as such, but the fact that visitors are not allowed to carry any handbags, cellphones etc, is an indicator of similar restrictions in India.
