Tiger Or No Tiger

What do you call a visitor who goes back to a Tiger Reserve within six weeks? 

Mad.

Crazy.

Gone case.

पागल, बावला। 

May be all of it!

Yes, Ghumakkad was in Amrabad Tiger Reserve on 15th-16th August. And he returned to the tiger country on 2nd October. Not alone. Two more co-travellers. 

Col Eric Lovega

He belongs to the Kenya Army and is attending a year-long management program in Secunderabad India. A marathon runner and fitness enthusiast, he readily came forward when I floated the idea of a Tiger Safari.

Ansh Bhargava

A keen adventurer. After his degree in Economics Honours, this 22-year-old had worked at a leading consulting firm before joining IIM Shillong for MBA. But his call to do 'something purposeful' drove him to the Indian Army. Having cleared the SSB and the medical, he is like a man-in-the-waiting!

Ghumakkad - the third team member. You all know him. The wanderer!

The picture below shows the three travellers in our cottage painted in camouflage. Location: Mannanur Jungle Resort, Amrabad, Telangana.

The Reserve Reopens

The Reserve had been closed for the monsoon season till 30th September.  We then planned to be there immediately thereafter. For driving directions, location, place to stay etc, readers may refer the stories linked later.

For those who have not been there, NH765 which pierces through the Tiger Reserve is closed for traffic from 9pm to 6am the next morning. The road has a ghat section as well. See the video to thank the forest department for such thoughtful action. In Bandipur Park in Karnataka, the highway is similarly shut at night.

Driving on the ORR, the Outer Ring Road around Hyderabad,  is always a pleasure. If you haven't driven there, feel the superb road through the 20-seconds video below. Shot at 110kmph, with Ansh at the wheel!

Safari

We did two safaris, one each in the afternoon and the next morning.  The forest is always enchanting, tiger or no tiger.  Few pictures and videos for you.

Grey Jungle Fowl - more heard than scene. Announcing the end of the day, hear the distinct call in the video below.

Crocodile Bark Tree - see the texture of the bark.

Till death do us part - two branches of a tree, broken, dried up but holding on together. 

Changeable Hawk Eagle - perched high up.

Pug Marks vs Tyre Marks - The safari drew a blank as far as the tiger goes. Not even the pug marks.  We only saw the tyre Marks.

But we were undeterred and pressed on. Reminded of the old Hindi song चलते ही जाना जहाँ तक आज ये राह चले  chlate hee jana, jahan tak aaj yeh raah chale!

While the Sun was going down, our enthusiasm remained up. See the video.

We tried our luck in the darkness of the jungle.

Night Walk

We did a short night walk. Although no pictures were taken, see the notes below and feel the adventure!

Insects and creatures sighted inside the resort:

Millipede

Giant Forest Scorpion and its over shaped burrow 

Wolf snake which had shed its skin

Male cricket making noise and retreating into its burrow. Poor males have to do hard work to attract females, across all species!

Another scorpion with smaller pincers 

We were actually looking for the Sand Boa which had been sighted near Cottage No. 8. Couldn't find it. So utilised the darkness to explore the resident  creatures in the Resort. 👍

Another Safari

Morning dawned well and we were off on another Safari.  

This time, we entered through Farahabad 

Gate. But before that we had to overcome a kilometer long queue at the highway. Remember the highway is closed at night?

Shekhar, our pilot did some smart off-roading.  Feel the thrill in the video below.

The road barrier being opened for our safari vehicle.

A statue of a Tiger welcomes you at the gate.

The safari route is longitudinal. See the map below.

All safari vehicles in Amrabad have a canopy.

Do's and Don't for visitors as promulgated by the NTCA.

Roads in this zone are much wider.

Nizam's Hunting Hut - couple of centuries old.

Brown-headed Barbet - low key continuous call. The bird couldn't be seen though.

While the Sun played hide and seek, we continued our hunt for the King of the jungle. Fresh pug marks gave some hope.

Winding pathways and us- the two companions.

We kept going for more than two hours.  Stopping,  listening to the calls by Sambar deer and resuming the search. Suddenly in a palm thicket, Akhil asked Shekhar to stop. In sign language he conveyed presence of a large animal  Closer look revealed our prized catch.

Leopard

It was so well camouflaged in the thicket that we could hardly see it.

Few more seconds, and it was gone. Ansh was quick to shoot few frames.

One more shot

Leopards are not easily sighted, specially during the day. Ultimately,  the leopard made our day. Tiger or no tiger, the forest remains fascinating. 

Around The Resort

Sharing below few pictures around the resort.

Girls always look after their kid brothers.

Rhesus Monkeys provide company to the guests.

Our cottage,  so well camouflaged. 

With Akhil, Head Naturalist and Shweta who manages the Resort and trains the staff. Picture below shows the Livelihoods Centre for tribal women.

Col Eric is wearing the traditional Masai Shuka in the picture below.

Scanty Monsoon

This year the monsoon has been deficient. So much so the Dindi River is without its spectacle. Compare the two pictures of the same spot, one year apart.

Earlier Stories

We share below the links to our previous stories of Amrabad and its surroundings.

Amrabad- Moss, Monkeys and Madness - like exploring a dead cave and hiking with the monkeys!

A Night in the Wild: Frogs, Fangs and Stings - Night walk with the crawlers!

Jungle Walk at Night Rescuing a Cobra - Feel the thrill  The story includes rescue of snakes, birds, bats and squirrels.

Amrabad Tiger Reserve- More Than Tigers - Pictures and videos of the Tiger Reserve.

Hope you enjoyed being in Amrabad. If you have been there, we welcome your anecdotes and pictures. We will append it.

Thanks for browsing. Do leave a comment. It encourages us.

Stay connected

   - Harsh-the-Ghumakkad with Ansh Bhargava/ Amrabad/ 3rd October 2026

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