Remembering Rezang La

Rezang La has been in the news recently. Why? What is Rezang La? Name of a place or a battle? Can we go there?

Ghumakkad shares his recent experience of Rezang La in this story. Ansh my grandson and I had the privilege of visiting Rezang La War Memorial in June 2025. It was a memorable experience offering our humble tribute there.

Rezang La is etched in the annals of battle history as the bravest example of 'Last Man Last Round'. Located in the icy heights of Ladakh India at an altitude of 16,500 feet above MSL Rezang La (La means a mountain pass like Khardung La) was the scene of one of the most heroic battles anywhere in the world. Rezang La post was manned by the Charlie Company of 13th Battalion of the Kumaon Regiment. 

Reaching Rezang La

Driving through the barren mountains of Ladakh gives you a feeling of how miniscule we humans are. In Chushul valley, you have to find a track to drive on. One can spot Indian Army bunkers on mountains which are sky high! There are posts which seem to be touching the sky. Sharing few pictures below.

On the way to Rezang La, we crossed the Flag Meeting Point, where the Indian and Chinese sides hold their meetings periodically. Visitors are not permitted on that stretch of the road.

The villagers in Ladakh have learnt to live in the extreme environment. They use local material for making their huts including the boundary walls. See the picture below.

Another high altitude pass which we traversed.

Those not familiar with Ladakh, may see the map below showing India China borders across Chushul valley and Pengongtso Lake.

As we neared the Memorial, we could see few vehicles parked outside. The first view of the iconic memorial was simply awe inspiring.

We quote below the details about Rezang La penned by Col Manoj Pathak, an Indian Army veteran who was commissioned into 13 KUMAON (hereinafter referred to as 13 Kumaon). Thank you Manoj.

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Every year, 18 November, is Rezang La Day. We salute the 114 soldiers of 121 soldiers of Charlie company (later renamed as Rezang-La company by Gazette notification of India) who gave the ultimate sacrifice this day on 18 Nov 1962 atop the icy heights at 16500 ft above MSL, called Rezang La.

Led by Major Shaitan Singh from the front, he took bullets in his left hand  and machine gun burst in his abdomen, laying down his life for India. He was awarded the highest war time gallantry award in the face of enemy. - the Param Vir Chakra (Posthumously). (Ed: A bust stands tall to honour Maj Shaitan Singh in his hometown of Jodhpur).

Dauntless daring, unwavering courage and an adamantine will- truly describe this bravest son of the soil!

An artist's impression of Maj Shaitan Singh leading from the front.

Pictured below are the two telegrams sent to Mrs Sugad, wife of Maj Shaitan Singh. The first telegram by the Defence Ministry sent on the eve of the Republic Day 1963 declared Maj Shaitan Singh as missing and presumed taken as POW. It also conveyed the news of the award of PVC. His body had not been found till then. It lay frozen under the snow in Rezang La.

The second telegram of 13th Feb 1963 from Indian Army informed her that Maj Shaitan Singh 'now reported killed in action'. The bodies were recovered on 11th Feb after the snows had melted.

In recognition of their conspicuous act of gallantry in the face of enemy, 13 Kumaon was decorated with eight Vir Chakras, and one each Sena Medal and Mention-in-Dispatches. 

Three months after the battle on 11 Feb 1963, a team of Red Cross and 13 Kumaon personnel visited the site of the battle and found the "Heroes" frozen in trenches with their weapons still in hand, ready to fire.

Apart from outdated weapons, the Indian troops were not well equipped with extreme cold climate clothing as compared to their Chinese counterparts. Similarly, the road infrastructure on the Chinese side was much more extensive and well developed.

Ninety-five of those "Heroes" were cremated in one single pyre, lit by then Brigadier TN Raina (later Chief of  the Army Staff) who was awarded Maha Vir Chakra. Remaining martyrs were cremated at the same place over several days as and when their bodies were discovered from the frozen battlefield. (Ed: Many of these brave soldiers were Ahirwals from Haryana. At Rezang La War Memorial, the cremation ground has been named 'Ahir Dham' and a plaque erected in their memory. See the pictures below).

(Ed: Similarly, as a mark of respect to the brave martyrs, a memorial has been erected in Rewari in Haryana)

At this very sacred place, today stands a huge White Marble Memorial, dedicated to the 114 Rezang  La Battle Heroes. (Ed: I felt humbled as well as blessed to have paid homage to Rezang La Heroes. See the picture below).

 

The Battle of Rezang La continues to be counted as one of the leading examples of "Last Man Last Round" Battle. Every single soldier though heavily outnumbered, fought till the end when the last round in his weapon got exhausted.

The most heart breaking fact is that two real brothers and their real brother-in-law (Jeeja) fought together and made the supreme sacrifice together in the same fire trench, lesser than 6x4.5x1.5 feet. Imagine the state of their family. While writing this, I am getting goosebumps. My eyes have welled up.

I wish this battle is taught to the students in schools across India. (Ed: We hope through this blog post, more and more people read about the ultimate sacrifice made by 114 soldiers of 13 Kumaon who killed almost 2000 enemy soldiers. Estimates of Chinese casualties vary. But the fact remains that Rezang La remains one of the most heroic defences in world military history).

 

On 18 Nov 2021 the memorial was re-inaugurated at Chushul, Leh, by Defence Minister Raj Nath Singh. The old Memorial remains unchanged, but auditorium, museum and a cafeteria have been added around the existing memorial. (Visitors are welcome there. Pictures below by Ansh, Ghumakkad's grandson)

I was commissioned in this incredible fighting machine 13 Kumaon. Later I got the opportunity to command the Rezang-La company during Op-Parakram and in Ethiopia-Eritrea (UN Mission).

The Nation must care for its war widows, war heroes, veterans and serving soldiers if the Nation is to survive and thrive.  

     - Col Manoj Pathak (Pen name Jayatu Bharatam)

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Once again we thank Col Manoj Pathak for this gripping narrative of the battle of Rezang La. We remain in awe of their bravery and sacrifice.

Postscript-1: Capt Sunil Sud, IN grew up in Jodhpur where his father was posted. He wrote:

"I was in Jodhpur when Maj Shaitan Singh's body was brought and taken around town in a horse drawn cortege. The cortege went right in front of our house. This and the 20 days of bombings during the 65 war, every night, are memories one carries along..."

Thanks for sharing Sunil.

End of postscript-1.

The Indian film industry has risen to the occasion and a feature film named '120 Bahadur' has been released on 21st Nov 2025 across the theatres in the world.

We have earlier also carried few stories remembering and honouring the fallen soldiers. One such story is linked below:

Fallen But Not Forgotten - Remembering the heroes of WW-I, a guest story by Trixie Asirvatham.

What Do The Veterans Need? - Do they need medical support, house, financial independence? Or, something more? Read on.

No amount of gratitude can ever repay a soldier's supreme sacrifice. The least we can do is to keep 'Nation First' in our mind. 

Always!

Jai Hind.

Thanks for browsing. Stay connected. Do leave a comment. Few words will do. It encourages us.

   -  Harsh-the-Ghumakkad with Col Manoj Pathak and Ansh Bhargava/ Secunderabad/ 25th Nov 2025

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