Saturday, 12 July 2025

High Altitude Hiking in Ladakh - Risky?

'Acclimatise for a minimum of two days!' 

'No local sight seeing for first 36 hours'

'Innter line permit will be given only two days after arrival in Leh'

'Leh has 25% lesser oxygen in the air. So acclimatise well!'

With these cautionary messages, would you venture out for a trek or hike at 13000 feet above the mean sea level? More so if you are a senior citizen past 73 years of age? Most tourists will say no! But Ghumakkad being in the company of his equally adventurous grandson Ansh, decided otherwise! Our picture story follows.

We undertook a high altitude hike in Ladakh while returning from Siachen Glacier and the Base Camp. On the return leg, after you cross Pamanik village and the hot springs, there is a worn out sign board of Yarab Tso meaning Yarab Lake. We had noticed the sign board on the way up the Glacier. The call of a high altitude hike, though fraught with risk, was too tempting not ot be taken. Both of us decided to explore!

The weathered signboard of Yarab Tso on Siachen Road.

Where is Yarab Tso

Located in the midst of vast Nubra valley and its expansive riverbed, it is a lake ensconced and hidden on top of three hills. Two of the three hills can be seen from the river bed while the third hill lies behind. See the terrain map below. The lake can neither be seen from the Siachen road nor the vast valley. Yarab Tso is not on the normal tourist circuit. Domestic tourists seldom go there (thank God for it! Otherwise the place would be as crowded as Khardung La or Hundar sand dunes!). Tashi, our driver informed that few foreign tourists do hike to the lake once in a while.



Significance

Yarab Tso lake is considered sacred and spiritual by the local folks. Bathing, washing or swimming is not permitted. The lake freezes in winter. Being June, the snows had melted all around. 

Our Picture Story follows.



The two explorers in Nubra valley, Ladakh
The hike begins with Ansh in the lead.


The riverbed was not completely dry. My experience told me it could be like quicksand. So I told Ansh to stop and follow me.

Once we crossed the wet part of the riverbed, Ansh was given a green signal to lead again!

In mountain hiking, you need to pause and admire the view as you gain height. Though Nubra valley is barren, yet it has its beauty.
Folks in the hills pile up stones around the roads, paths and trails. These are prayer stones which remain steady till a severe storm topples them.
The rarefied atmosphere of Ladakh was showing its effect on us. Huffing and puffing, we could take few steps before stopping. After catching our breath, we could continue again. It was slow climbing particularly for me at 73 years. Ansh still had spring in his legs at 21!

See the video below of our slow and steady climb.

While we kept going, bend after bend, the lake was nowhere in sight!


At last, the lake appeared from hiding!

A perimeter walkway with tiles is being built around the lake for people to do a 'parikrama' probably!
It was difficlt to find a level spot for the DSLR tripod to take a timer shot. We did find a spot but the camera viewfinder had to rest against a boulder. So, the timer shot had to be like a blind shot! Luckily, the result was not bad!


Thankfully the lake and its approach were devoid of other tourists or hikers. We could not spot any human beings as far as the eyes could see!

It was time to start the descent. Ansh had all the energy. Although I led in the beginning to maintain a steady downward climb, Ansh overtook after a while! If I was him, I would have done the same at that age!


Other Stories on Ladakh

Given below are the links to our previous stories on Ladakh. Click to browse the pictures and videos.

Blue Skies Lift Your Spirit - Aerial shots as we approach Leh. The blue skies are so uplifting!


Siachen The Highest Battlefield In The World - See the pictures and videos of our drive through the Nubra Valley to Siachen Glacier and the War Memorial. Very humbling experience.

Hope you liked our adventurous hike in a high altitude riverbed in Ladakh. Looking back, it was a risky adventure. Risky because of rarefied atmosphere and fear of catching the pulmonary oedema. But what is life without a bit of risk and adventure? God was with us.

Do leave a comment, even if a few words. It encourages us.

More stories of our adventures in Ladakh are coming up. Stay connected. Thanks for browsing.

    - Harsh-the-Ghumakkad with Ansh Bhargava/ Nubra Valley and Secunderabad/ 12th July 2025

#Leh #Ladakh #NubraValley #Siachen #YarabTso #YarabLake #HighAltitude #Hiking #Riverbed #Pamanik #HiddenLake #Trekking #NavyVeteran #Adventure #RiskInLife #Ghumakkadhb #ghumakkadharsh #GrandpaGrandson #acclimatisation

Friday, 4 July 2025

Siachen The Highest Battlefield in the World

Siachen is known for the glacier and for being the highest battlefield in the world. In fact Ladakh, where Siachen is located, has many 'highests' in the world to its credit. Few of these are listed below:

World's Highest Battlefield

Highest ATC (Air Traffic Control)

Highest cell phone tower

Highest Golf Course

Highest Motorable Raod in the world and so on!

In this picture story we take you to Siachen Glacier, Base Camp, War Memorial and the Nubra Valley.

Drive to Siachen Glacier

Meandering along Nubra River which originates from Siachen Glacier, the road goes through wide valley and number of villages. The mountain ranges are barren having straight slopes of thousands of feet. The rocks are fragile with shooting stones at many places. There are patches of sandy slopes which give rise to dust storms at 12,000 feet above the MSL. Very challenging terrain indeed. See the maps, pictures and videos below.










Here is a short video capturing the panorama of Nubra valley in Ladakh. You can feel the vastness of the valley and the rugged terrain.



The video below takes you through Remo, one of the villages enroute to Siachen Glacier. I had been to the glacier 25 years ago. The green transformation in the villages since then  has been remarkable.






Siachen Glacier - The first glance from miles away!


As we approached the Siachen base camp, the terrain became even more rugged and tougher. See the video clip below.

 
You can get a feel of crossing the turbulent Nubra river as we enter the Base Camp. Visitors are allowed with proof of identity. See the short video below:


Siachen War Memorial

A plaque at the Siachen War Memorial: Base Camp, reads that the Memorial was erected to commemorate the 'Siachen Warriors' who sacrificed their lives guarding the 'Frozen Frontiers of Siachen Area'. The memorial honours those involved in Op 'Meghdoot' which commenced on April 13, 1984.

Initially built at Base Camp I, East of River Nubra, it was relocated to Base Camp II in December 2006. When Ghumakkad had visited the Base Camp in the year 2000, the memorial existed in a smaller version. 

The memorial walls bear the names of martyrs and the battalions that have served in the Siachen Brigade since 1984. A 120 ft high National flag mast was gifted by the Jindal Group in December 2016. Significant renovation was undertaken in 2018-19 by 7 Mahar and other units of Siachen Brigade.

See the pictures and a video below.






We share below a short video showing the Siachen War Memorial in all its glory.





For Ghumakkad, a former Naval officer, sighting the Naval Ensign at Siachen was a matter of pride. See the picture below.







The ice wall of Siachen Glacier is not white any more. It has become grey over the years and remains so. See the picture below.

The two adventurers- Ansh and grandpa Harsh. With Siachen Glacier in the background.



World's Highest ATC

World's highest ATC is located at Siachen! See the picture below.

Our previous story on Ladakh highlighting the blue skies is listed below. Click to browse the picture story.

Blue Skies Lift Your Spirit contains pictures shot from our flight to Leh. Picture below shows snowy peaks looming large at you!


More stories of our Ladakh exploration are coming! Stay connected and do leave a comment. It motivates us to keep going.

    - Harsh-the-Ghumakkad with Ansh Bhargava/ Ladakh and Secunderabad/ 4th July 2025

#Siachen #Glacier #WarMemorial #BaseCamp #SiachenWarriors #Martyrs #CentralGlacier #NorthGlacier #NubraValley #NubraRiver #Ladakh #leh #HighAltitude #ghumakkadhb #ghumakkadharsh